Mosnel is one of the great producers of Franciacorta, Italy’s high-end sparkling wine. Though the wines of Franciacorta undergo the traditional secondary fermentation in the bottle, so the so-called “Champagne method,” the blend of grapes can be different. For this Chardonnay-dominant wine, Mosnel blends Pinot Blanc (23 percent), a touch of Pinot Noir (5 percent) and Erbamet (1 percent), a long-forgotten local variety, to achieve a layered complexity. Growers are hopeful that Erbamet, a late-ripening grape high in acidity, will help balance the climate change-induced heightened ripeness of the other grapes in the blend. Something works in Mosnel’s engaging NV Brut, which displays refinement, depth, and complexity, all enveloped in a graceful texture. It’s a delight to drink.
93 Michael Apstein – Aug 13, 2025