Capezzana, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2018

($62, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  This youthful treasure is a single vineyard Sangiovese named after Ugo Contini Bonacossi, the force behind the modern Capezzana estate who sadly passed away in 2013.  The production is small, fewer than 3,000 bottles a year, because only the best grapes from this vineyard that Ugo loved go into the wine.  The taut and muscular 2018 is magical, displaying minerality and purity.  Its firm, but not hard, structure is what you would expect from a young Sangiovese-based wine from a great site.  It is statuesque without being flashy.  It demands attention without being overt or flamboyant.  Enlivening Tuscan acidity amplifies its youthful charms.  I would be sure to save a space for it in the cellar and revisit it in a decade.
96 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023