Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2021

($25, Kysela Pere et Fils):  The quality of wines labeled Côtes du Rhône is as vast as the appellation, which is to say, vast.  So, what differentiates one from another?  The producer, of course.  And Domaine de la Mordorée is one of the best, not only of Côtes du Rhône, but of other Rhône Valley appellations as well.  This delightful red Côtes du Rhône, a blend of the usual Mediterranean suspects — Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault — is head and shoulders above what is frequently found in this appellation.  Abundant and alluring herbal and savory non-fruit flavors complement the fresh red fruit ones.  Mild polished tannins lend support without interfering.  In short, it’s a delight.  My advice: stock up for the fast-approaching summer grilling season.
91 Michael Apstein May 2, 2023