Category Archives: France – Rhône Valley

E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) La Turque 2022 ($657, Vintus)

La Turque vineyard has been acclaimed since the early 20th century, with wines from it exclusively served at the Elysée Palace, according to Philippe Guigal, who currently oversees the Guigal estate. The previous owner of the vineyard failed to pay taxes, according to Philippe, the property was seized and eventually sold to Vidal-Fleury, another Côte Rôtie estate.… Read more

E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) La Mouline 2022 ($657, Vintus)

Since the La Mouline vineyard is an amphitheater on the steeply sloped Côte Blonde portion of Côte Rôtie, the vines have a spectrum of exposures, which I suspect accounts (at least in part) for the wine’s extraordinary complexity. Philippe Guigal, who oversees this still family-owned estate, explains that there’s schist, not granite, and limestone on the Côte Blonde, which gives an elegance to the Syrah.… Read more

E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Château d’Ampuis” 2022 ($175, Vintus)

Guigal’s Côte Rôtie under the Château d’Ampuis label lies between their excellent (and not to be overlooked) Brune et Blonde bottling and their highly prized “LaLas” both in quality and price. Typically a blend of about 93 percent Syrah co-fermented with 7% Viognier, the grapes comes from seven parcels, three from the Côte Blonde (Le Clos, La Garde, and La Grande Plantée) and four from the Côte Brune (La Pommière, Le Pavillon Rouge, Le Moulin and La Viria) all of which are adjacent to one of their “LaLa” vineyard plots.… Read more

M. Chapoutier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Meysonniers” 2023 ($24, Folio)

Chapoutier, one of the top Rhône producers, consistently makes a winsome Crozes-Hermitage, from the generally flatter and larger appellation surrounding the exalted Hermitage hill. Their Syrah-based, mid-weight 2023 Les Meysonniers, made from organically grown grapes, displays fresh and lively red fruit notes overlain with peppery nuances.… Read more

Delas, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Saint-Esprit” 2023 ($16, Maisons Marques et Domaines)

Côtes du Rhône, a vast appellation encompassing vineyards both in the southern and northern Rhône, produces a range of wines from ordinary to superb. Since Delas is a noted producer in the Rhône, it comes as no surprise that their Saint-Esprit is consistently enjoyable despite being a relatively large production wine they produce by utilizing fruit under contract from other growers as well.… Read more

Domaine La Ferme Saint-Martin, Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Terres Jaunes” 2022 ($35)

French wine regulators elevated red Beaumes-de-Venise, an attractive village sitting at the feet of the picturesque Dentelles de Montmirail in the Rhône Valley, from a Côtes de Rhône-Villages appellation to a stand-alone cru appellation, like Gigondas or Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in 2005. This gorgeous wine shows why.… Read more

Guigal, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($38, Vintus)

This Gigondas shows Guigal’s talents for finding suppliers and creating a stellar wine. Unlike Côte Rôtie and Hermitage, Guigal owns no vineyards in Gigondas, so the house buys wine from local growers and blends them. A typical southern Mediterranean blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (20%) and Mourvèdre, this mid-weight Gigondas brings together a seamless balance of dark fruit, spice, and minerals.… Read more

Lionel Faury, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Ribaudes” 2021

($41, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):  St. Joseph, an important but sometimes overlooked appellation in the Northern Rhône, is exceptionally long, running on the west bank of that river from Cornas in the south to Condrieu in the north.  Its soils and exposures are varied, given its length, unlike its more circumscribed neighbors, Cornas, Hermitage, and Côte Rôtie, so it’s hard to generalize about the wines. Read more

Rotem and Mounir Saouma, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Arioso” 2020

($175, Vintus):  With Arioso, and indeed all of Rotem and Mounir Saouma’s Rhône wines, the finesse and weightlessness of Burgundy meets the muscle of the Rhône.  In Burgundy, the husband-and-wife team is a mini-négociant, buying small amounts of grapes or newly pressed wine from growers—typically just a few barrels—raising it, and bottling it under the Lucien Le Moine label. Read more

Look to the Rhône for Summertime Drinking

My friends say that I hate rosé.  I don’t.  I just think there are many far more interesting alternatives.  (Here, we’re talking about still wine, not rosé Champagne, which is heavenly.)  Most rosé is innocuous.  “I’ll have a glass of rosé,” has replaced “I’ll have a glass of Chardonnay” as shorthand for “I want a glass of wine—I don’t need to know anything else about it.” … Read more

Domaine La Florane, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Saint Maurice (Rhône Valley, France) “Echevin” 2021

($21):  The Rhône Valley provides a treasure trove of reasonably priced reds and whites, especially from the appellations with a lesser pedigree compared to the famed ones, such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Hermitage.  There is a trio of appellations, Côte du Rhône, Côtes du Rhone-Villages, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages with a named village appended, such as Saint Maurice, that offer particularly good value. Read more

E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Brune et Blonde de Guigal” 2019

($91, Vintus):  Côte Rôtie, or “roasted slope” transliterated into English, is composed of two major subdivisions, the Côte Brune and the Côte Blonde.  Typically, the former imparts more power to the Syrah grown there because of the iron rich soil, while the latter is home to Syrah with more finesse, reflecting its limestone soil. Read more

Object Lesson in Excellence: E. Guigal’s Côte-Rôtie “Château d’Ampuis” 2019

The Guigal family, the elder Marcel and his wife Bernadette, and their son Philippe and his wife Eve, have always focused on site specificity in the great Northern Rhône appellation of Côte-Rôtie. It started in 1966 when they bottled wine separately from La Mouline, a 2.5-acre vineyard planted with both Syrah and Viognier, in an amphitheater on the Côte Blonde slope of the appellation. Read more

Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021

($15, Bowler):  I am reviewing this bargain-priced beauty again for emphasis since I just tasted it again.  This seductive white shows the potential of white wines from the southern Rhône.  A subtle peach-like character merges with a firm minerality.  The combination delights the palate and invigorating acidity in the finish magnifies it charms. Read more

Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” 2022

($15):  Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative.  A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. Read more

Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2020

($35, Kysela Pere et Fils):  Lirac, a lesser-known appellation across the Rhône River from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is, like that more well-known neighbor, also a cru of the Rhône, a distinction given to a village and its surroundings that makes distinctive wines.  So, looking at the Rhône quality pyramid, Lirac sits with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other crus, at the top. Read more

Château de Montfaucon, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “Comtesse Madeleine” 2021

($30):  Lirac, an often-overlooked appellation of the southern Rhône just to the west of Châteauneuf du Pape, is one of two Rhône appellations that makes all three colors, reds, whites, and rosés.  (Vacqueyras is the other.)  From what I heard from many during my recent trip to the area, Château de Montfaucon is one of the leading producers there. Read more

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2019

($16, Vintus Wines):  To me, the mark of a great producer lies in their least expensive wine.  Of course, Guigal is rightly known for their mind-boggling La La’s, small single-vineyard wines, La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque, from the Côte Rôtie, whose approximate 20,000-bottle combined annual production is highly allocated and sells for hundreds of dollars a bottle. Read more

Domaine Bernard Burgaud, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) 2020

($73):  Côte Rôtie, a small appellation in the Northern Rhône that is home to spectacular red wines, allows the inclusion of up to 20 percent Viognier.  Burgaud included some Viognier in their Côte Rôtie in the past, but Pierre Burgaud, who is currently in charge, told me that with climate change and better ripening of Syrah, they no longer feel the need to add Viognier to bolster the alcohol. Read more

Domaine de la Mordorée, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reine des Bois” 2018

($101, Kysela Père et Fils):  Domaine de la Mordorée, founded only in 1986 by the Delorme family, makes a wonderful range of wines from several southern Rhône appellations.  La Reine des Bois is, for all practical purposes, their top Châteauneuf-du-Pape (They do make a special cuvée occasionally, once or twice a decade, labeled Plume du Peintre, which is practically impossible to find and priced for the one-percenters of the world.) Read more

E. Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2018

($28):  Guigal, an undisputed leader in the Rhône, shows his considerable talents with this white wine from what is best known for its reds.  White wine from Crozes-Hermitage comprises less than ten percent of the appellation’s total production.  This one, a blend of mostly (90+ percent) of Marsanne with Roussanne providing the remainder, delivers delicate and refined stone fruit flavors with wonderful acidity, a characteristic often lacking in Rhône whites. Read more

Costières de Nîmes: Overlooked Southern Rhône Gem

Even those who know little about wine recognize the name Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  Wine enthusiasts can name other important appellations in France’s southern Rhône Valley, such as Gigondas, maybe even Vacqueryas.  Really savvy consumers know that Vinsorbres, Rasteau and Cairanne, previously included under the Côtes du Rhône-Villages umbrella, have achieved their own appellations, and that Sablet and Seguret are two of the 21 named villages that remain under that umbrella. … Read more