($33, Chemin des Vins): Philippe Desmure and his daughter Emilie are making fabulous wine at this estate. This 2001 — a fabulous vintage in the northern Rhone — is a heavyweight Crozes-Hermitage. Meaty, with supple tannins, it has traces of minerals and tar more often seen in Hermitage than Crozes-Hermitage.… Read more
Category Archives: France – Rhône Valley
Eric Texier, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($45, Louis Dressner Selections): Trained as a nuclear engineer, Texier turned to winemaking. He worked in Burgundy and told me he tries to put ‘Burgundian sensibilities into Rhône wines.’ His 2005 Condrieu has the Burgundian character of incredible flavor without heaviness.… Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) 2003
($22, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal, arguably the Rhône’s best producer, has been making stellar wines from Côte Rôtie since the 1960s. His first vintage of Crozes Hermitage was 1999, just prior to his acquiring land in that part of the Northern Rhône.… Read more
Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône, France) Château dAmpuis 2001
($140, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal introduced this wine, a blend from six exceptionally well located parcels-three on the Côte Brune and three on the Côte Blonde-with the 1995 vintage. It’s meant to be a bridge between his regular Brune et Blonde and the single vineyards wines, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque.… Read more
Patrick LeSec, Vaqueyras (Rhone, France) Vielles Vignes 2003
($27, Patrick LeSec /Chemin des Vins): The Southern Rhone handled the heat of 2003 much better than most areas of France and, as a result, turned out some fabulous wines. This is one of them. Meaty and full-blown, it retains remarkable succulence and balance.… Read more