Category Archives: France – Rhône Valley

Pierre Gonon, St. Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2012

($53, Kermit Lynch): Wow.  You don’t normally expect this kind of power and finesse from a wine from St. Joseph.  But some producers are now demonstrating that St. Joseph can be a locale for great wines.  Though it’s a long narrow appellation on the west bank of the Rhône, a portion of it at its southern end sits directly across from Hermitage and indeed, the granite rock in which the vines are planted is identical to the soil across the river.  Read more

Château de Saint Cosme, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012

($42): Gigondas, another one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village, is capable of producing powerful, yet stylish wines.  This is one them.  Using the usual blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsault, the team at Saint Cosme have fashioned a delightfully unusual combination of black fruit flavors, mineral-like nuances and herbal notes, all of which are wrapped in suave tannins.Read more

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2011

($24, Vintus): Crozes-Hermitage, an appellation on flatter ground surrounding the prestigious and sloped Hermitage appellation, is a sleeper site for attractively priced Syrah-based Rhône wines.  In distinction to its more famous neighbor, wines from Crozes, as they’re sometimes known, need less aging and are far less expensive, but can provide enormous value, especially when produced by a top firm, such as Guigal. Read more

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2011

($14, Vintus): Guigal, more than anyone, is responsible for catapulting Rhône wines from a cult following in the 1980s to their now extraordinary widespread popularity.  Guigal is, of course, famous for their single vineyard bottlings of Côte Rôtie wines, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque, which now are highly allocated and sell for hundreds of dollars a bottle upon release. Read more

Domaine de la Citadelle, IGP Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) “Viognier de la Citadelle” 2013

($17): The regulations for the AOP (formerly known as AOC) Luberon require the wines be made from a blend of grapes because it’s the tradition in the region. That’s why this one, made entirely from Viognier, a white grape whose home is the northern Rhône, but thrives at Domaine de la Citadelle, carries the IGP designation instead of a more prestigious AOP. Read more

Domaine de Durban, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) 2011

($30, Kermit Lynch): Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a unique fortified sweet wine, has long been held in high regard, having received appellation status in 1945 and elevated to a cru, comparable to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in 2005.  Domaine de Durban, one of the appellation’s top producers, makes a consistently glorious traditionally styled wine. Read more

Domaine Jean-David , Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2011

($20, Polaner): Domaine Jean-David is a small 40-acre domaine located in Seguret, one of the 18 villages that make more distinctive wine and therefore are allowed to append their name to the Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages appellation.  Made from the usual Mediterranean blend of Grenache (71%) and Carignan (14%) with Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah rounding out the blend, it is both floral and mineraly with suave tannins. … Read more

Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2009

($119, Vineyard Brands):  Beaucastel is one of the top properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  Year after year, they produce a multidimensional, age-worthy wine.  Although Mourvèdre and Grenache, at about 30% each, comprise the majority of the blend, Beaucastel uses all 13 grape varieties permitted in the appellation, which may explain the phenomenal complexity of their wines, especially the 2009. … Read more

Cave de Tain, St. Joseph Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) “Esprit de Granite” 2009

($22, Cognac One):  The appellation of St. Joseph lies on the right (West) bank of the Rhône, facing east and its more famous neighbor, Hermitage.  Though the granite soil is similar to that of Hermitage and the grape (Syrah) is the same, the wines are lighter and earlier maturing because the east-facing exposure means less sunlight–and ripeness–during the harvest season. … Read more

Cave de Tain, Saint-Péray (Rhône Valley, France) “Fleur de Roc” 2009

($20, Cognac One):  Saint-Péray, a tiny appellation in the Rhône, produces only white or sparkling wine.  Cave de Tain is the local, highly regarded cooperative there.  Like many Rhône white wines, this one delivers fleshy yellow fruit flavors.  But unlike many white Rhônes, it also has lovely brightness and vivacity to balance the usual waxy texture. … Read more

Domaine Lou Frejau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2007

($50, AP Wine Imports):  Founded by Serge Chastan in 1982, Domaine Lou Frejau, which means round pebbles after the stones found in the vineyards, produces this Châteauneuf-du-Pape from all of the eight permitted varieties of red grapes.  Their 2007 is certainly filled with ripe fruit flavors and spice, but also displays considerable elegance unlike many of the super concentrated southern Rhone wines from that year. … Read more

Vidal-Fleury, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Brune et Blonde” 2005

($74, W J Deutsch):  The popularity–and price–of Côte-Rôtie has skyrocketed recently.  In 1971, the appellation consisted of only 140 acres and was shrinking.  Currently it covers about 500 acres, divided principally between the steep slopes behind the town of Ampuis, named Côte Blonde and Côte Brune because of the sandy/limestone soil of the former and the iron containing clay soil of the latter. … Read more