Domaine Bernard Burgaud, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) 2020

($73):  Côte Rôtie, a small appellation in the Northern Rhône that is home to spectacular red wines, allows the inclusion of up to 20 percent Viognier.  Burgaud included some Viognier in their Côte Rôtie in the past, but Pierre Burgaud, who is currently in charge, told me that with climate change and better ripening of Syrah, they no longer feel the need to add Viognier to bolster the alcohol.  This 100 percent Syrah, a blend from many parcels in the Côte Blonde, the southern portion of the appellation, displays a marvelous mixture of dark fruit, meaty nuances and a firm minerality.  Succulent and fresh, the wine is wrapped in fine tannins that impart a suave texture.  I just drank a sumptuous and fresh bottle of Burgaud’s 1985 Côte Rôtie from my cellar, so I have no hesitation in recommending the 2019 for the cellar.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2023