($52):  Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed.  Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change.  Made entirely from Sangiovese, the robust and youthful 2018 Rialzi conveys the expected dark cherry notes of Sangiovese and engaging sweet oakiness from aging in new small oak barrels (barriques) for 24 months.  This impressive young wine unfolds in the glass as initially reticent aromatics break forth.  Plenty of spice and a delectable hint of bitterness in the finish keep the fruity aspects in balance.  If you opt to drink this now and enjoy its youthful vigor, then decant it, let it sit in the glass, and don’t rush it.  Alternatively, cellar it for a few years to let the components come together.
94 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2023