Bonterra, Mendocino County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon McNab Ranch Vineyard “The McNab” 2020

($60):  Whenever the name of a wine starts with “The,” you know the producer wants to make a statement.  An overweight bottle adds to that message.  Made with biodynamically grown grapes, this is a big, bold style of Cabernet.  Powerful and concentrated, it’s not overdone, just intense with a commanding presence.  An intriguing hint of tarry bitterness in the finish emphasizes that this is a serious wine, not just a powerhouse of ripe fruit.  Moderate, but finely honed, tannins add necessary structure and balance without intruding.  Taken together, this powerhouse calls for a steak or leg of lamb this winter.  As an aside, it’s hard to ignore the paradox of environmentally friendly viticulture and the unnecessarily heavy bottle.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2023