Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Circa 77” 2021

($18, RWG USA):  The 77 moniker refers to 1977, the year Dr. John Lagan, an Irishman, founded Xanadu.  This light, fresh Chardonnay, weighing in at only 12.5 percent stated alcohol, will delight those who avoid the opulent buttery style of that varietal.  Seemingly unoaked and despite the lack of opulence, the Circa 77 Chardonnay has a wonderfully glossy texture.  Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that the wine was, in fact, aged entirely in oak barrels, all of which were several years old.  He ascribes the texture to the technique of stirring the lees, not oak aging.  Mild citrus notes amplify its stony character.
89 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2023