Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze” 2021

($73, Vintus):  Sauvignon Blanc was among the initial plantings at Ornellaia and initially they made a wine exclusively from that variety.  Over time, Viognier, Vermentino, and Verdicchio have been added and now the current blend includes those four in proportions that vary from year to year depending on the weather.  The minerally 2021 displays a hint of pungency of Sauvignon Blanc varietal character, but by no means is this just a fruity wine.  Piercing and refreshing acidity supports mid-weight body and depth.  Good length and an alluring hint of bitterness in the finish add to its appeal.  A serious wine, Poggio alle Gazze’s stature holds up to Ornellaia’s reputation.  It is lovely now with grilled swordfish.
94 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2023