Biondi-Santi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2020

($89, Wilson Daniels):  The label says Rosso, but the wine says Brunello.  That’s Biondi-Santi for you.  Firm, sleek and minerally, this mid-weight Rosso has more elegance and stature than many producers’ bottlings of Brunello.  Fine tannins surround tightly coiled power and exquisite austerity.  Its profile will not be for everyone — those looking for opulence should look elsewhere.  But those who embrace firm, elegant wines with grace and substance will love its beauty.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 26, 2023