Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Gris” 2022

($24):  Anyone who wants to see the potential of Vermentino just needs to uncork one from Lunae.  This one, which translates as Grey Label, is stunning, even though it is not their top-of-line bottling (that would be the Black Label, or Etichetta Nera.  Weighing in at a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol, it nonetheless astounds the palate with its persistence.  This minerally white has a saline-like acidity that emphasizes its freshness and depth.  A delicate hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces its zesty sleek profile.  As lovely as Lunae’s IGT Vermentino is, this DOC bottling reminds us that site matters.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2023