Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2022

($42):  Ok, forty plus bucks for a Vermentino is a big ask.  Trust me, this is likely the best Vermentino you will ever taste.  This tightly wound wonder (identified as “Etichetta Nera” or Black Label) has great power coupled with extraordinary grace.  Not a heavy wine, weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol, it still has an imposing presence.  Long and finesse-filled, it delivers a mouth-watering salinity that magnifies its chiseled minerality.  A hint of bitterness in the finish makes it a perfect choice for whatever comes from the sea.  Think of it as a great forty-dollar white wine.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2023