Domaine Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2021 

($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs):  I repeat what I’ve said before: Value in Burgundy these days is found at the lower pedigree appellations made by talented producers.  Pernot Belicard is a great example of a top producer bottling exceptional white wines at every pedigree.  The relatively new moniker, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, indicates that the grapes — Chardonnay, it is white Burgundy — come only from that revered heart of Burgundy and not from the Mâconnais or the Côte Chalonnaise.  The energy inherent in the wines of the cooler 2021 vintage support the subtle creamy minerality of this wine.  It has more depth than you’d expect from the appellation, which simply shows the talent of the producer.  Pernot-Belicard’s 2020 Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which I also recommend highly, is a little richer, reflecting the warmth of that vintage, while the 2021 delivers a refreshing and mouth-cleansing raciness.  There’s a case in my cellar, which is probably more meaningful as a recommendation than 93 points.  There is also a case of the 2020 beside it.  Get the point about the producer?
93 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2023