Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020

($375):  Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers.  They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009.  Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.”  The ripe 2020 vintage is especially well-suited to an otherwise austere site, like Corton-Perrières because the warmth of the vintage adds a luxurious fleshiness to the bones of this wine.  It leads with an explosive mineral and dark fruit-infused aromatics that follow on the palate.  Fleshy and firm, it has unusual energy and vivacity given the warmth of the vintage.  This long and graceful Corton will reward decades of cellaring, but it is quite captivating right now.
96 Michael Apstein Mar 7, 2023