Maison Auvigue, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) “Chênes” 2022

($35):  Saint-Véran, which lies adjacent to Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais, lies between single village Mâcon wines, like Mâcon-Azé, and Pouilly-Fuissé in the appellation hierarchy.  That is not to say you can’t find a Mâcon-Azé that is more stylish and enjoyable than a Saint-Véran, nor does it mean that every Pouilly-Fuissé is superior to every Saint-Véran.  In my mind, producer is always more important than appellation, which is why I keep recommending wines from Auvigue, a consistently top-notch producer in the Mâconnais.  This wine, a blend of many plots within the town of Dabayé, is labeled Chênes (literally, oak) because it has been aged in old oak barrels, which adds a touch of complexity without intruding.  In keeping with the hierarchal layering, it delivers more depth and finesse than Auvigue’s Macon wine but has less punch than their superb Pouilly-Fuissé.  As with all Auvigue’s 2022s, the racy finish keeps you coming back for more.  Time to discuss your purchases with your banker.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024