Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019

($19, SM USA):  In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine.  Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone.  In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now.  It gives you an insight into the potential grandeur of Amarone.  Currently, Masi uses the appassimento method, the same as for Amarone just less of it, which combines wine fermented regularly with wine fermented from dried grapes.  The result is a bolder, yet balanced Valpolicella with an alluring combination of fresh and dried fruit notes.  Darker fruit — think plums rather than cherries — adds heft without a trace of heaviness.  Suave, fine tannins mean it’s ideal for drinking this robust wine this winter.  It delivers a beguiling not-just-fruit character in the finish.  Another bargain from Masi!
93 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2023