Alex Foillard, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2021

($47, Kermit Lynch):  First, the backstory.  At a Paris bistro, I ordered a glass of 2021 Côte de Brouilly, from Thivin, one of the best producers of that cru.  Out came a glass of red wine, which was alluring, mineral-y and dense, and every bit as good as I had expected.  When the waiter eventually succumbed to my request to see the bottle, it turned out that the wine he poured me was actually a 2021 Brouilly from Alex Foillard.  Now, the Foillard name is legendary in Beaujolais because Jean Foillard was one of the leaders, who, decades ago, showed just how exciting and stunning wines from Beaujolais, even Beaujolais-Villages, could be.  Well, Alex, Jean’s son has set out on his own and judging from this wine, his talents are no less grand than his father’s.  Wines from Brouilly, the largest of the Beaujolais crus, can often be dilute and just fruity.  Not this one, which is packed and firm, reflecting the region’s granite.  Its sleek and glossy texture enrobe layers of dark mineral-like flavors intermingled with black fruits.  It is my new benchmark for Brouilly.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2023