($37):  Petit Manseng is not a well-known grape.  Although frequently used for making sweet wines in the southwest of France, it is capable, as this wine shows brilliantly, of making stellar dry wines.  Jancis Robinson, the noted British wine authority, notes its high acidity makes it well-suited for the heat of Virginia, where it has been planted since 2010.  Despite 14.4% stated alcohol, this Petit Manseng is not opulent or overdone.  Rather, it displays just the right amount of stone fruit character supported by bright invigorating acidity that keeps it fresh and wonderfully lively.  It has excellent weight and power without a trace of heaviness.  Long and bright, a delicate and appealing hint of bitterness in the finish just adds to its appeal.  It would be a fine choice for drinking this summer with grilled swordfish or other full-flavored seafood.
94 Michael Apstein May 21, 2024