Domaine Mont Bessay, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Le Vieux Bourg 2021

($50, Misa Imports):  Domaine Mont Bessay is a new project from the people who make the beautifully textured wines at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in Givry.  Just as Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko are drawing attention to Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise — not to be confused with Gevrey in the Côte d’Or — they will make the world think differently about Beaujolais cru wines.  This racy Moulin-à-Vent delivers dark minerality wrapped in a suave robe of firm, not hard, tannins.  This wine comes from grapes grown on lighter sandier soil in Moulin-à-Vent as opposed to the granitic soil around the windmill, which likely explains why this youthful wine is so engaging to drink now.  Both charming and serious, it is a good option for grilled beef.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 12, 2023