($58): Vino Vasai’s Pinot Noir dispel the myth that you need super ripe grapes, which translates into 14+ percent alcohol, to make stunning wines. This stunning 2019 Estate Reserve is a case in point. With only 12.7 percent stated alcohol, it delivers what to me is the hallmark of Pinot Noir — flavor without weight. The wine explodes in your mouth while simultaneously dancing on the palate. It’s not the least bit ponderous but it leaves a pronounced impression. A suave texture, bright acidity, a hint of mushroom-y like maturity makes it a delight to savor now. Each sip brings new delight. Winemakers, take notice, you don’t need über ripe grapes to make an impressive wine.
96 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2023