($35):  This is just one in the stellar line-up of wines that Mario Zanusso makes at I Clivi.  In the right hands — and Zanusso certainly has them — Friulano has depth, a suave texture, and bright acidity.  I Clivi’s 2021 has all of that and more.  Zanusso wrings every bit of concentration from the grape without a trace of heaviness.  Its luxurious texture imparts a presence without being overbearing.  A subtle peachiness emerges as it sits in the glass.  Uplifting freshness in the finish seals the deal.  It’s a great choice for grilled fish this summer.
95 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023