Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “V. V. 46” 2022

($37):  The back label tells us the wine made from vines planted in 1946 is a tribute to Jean-Marc’s “spiritual” father, Louis Petit, “who taught him how to make the soil speak.”  With more weight and density, it is a fabulous contrast to Brocard’s Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire, showing the impact of vine age.  The floral V.V. 46 is riper and richer with less of the cutting edginess compared to the Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire.  At this stage, its lushness blunts the tension typical of Chablis.  The V.V. 46 is just a different expression of Chablis, conveying less minerality and more ripeness at this stage.  Is one better than the other?  I think not.  I recommend both highly.  They will appeal to different palates.  For a real lesson, grab a bottle of each, invite some friends over, and learn something about Chablis.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024