René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Longeroies Vieilles Vignes 2019

($47):  Marsannay, almost a suburb of Dijon, is the northernmost appellation of the Côtes de Nuits.  Usually, wines from Burgundy’s exalted Côtes de Nuits, think Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, or Vosne-Romanée, are frightfully expensive.  Marsannay has not gotten the message — yet.  They will.  Especially within the upcoming few years as the decade-long process of identifying premier cru vineyards is finally codified.  Bouvier, located in neighboring Gevery-Chambertin, is one of Marsannay’s top producers.  Longeroies is on the short list to attaining premier cru status.  Bouvier’s fragrant 2019 combines ripe dark fruit accented with spicy black pepper, all buttressed by racy acidity.  Drink it this summer with meat off the grill if you must, but save a few bottles for the cellar because, in my experience, Bouvier’s wines develop magnificently with bottle age.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2024