($23, Palm Bay International):  Gavi is one of the unsung stars of Italian white wines.  This one, from Batasiolo, a top Barolo producer, is made entirely from Cortese grape grown in the village of Gavi, from which the DOCG takes its name. Fiorenzo Dogliani, whose family owns the Batasiolo estate, explains that Gavi lies only 30 miles north of Genoa and the Mediterranean Sea.  That may explain the saline-like acidity that enhances and amplifies this wine’s depth.  Its length and minerality is dazzling.  An appealing concentration balances its enormous energy.   Ready now, it’s a fine choice for anything from the sea.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 22, 2022