($30): Tempranillo in Oregon? Who knew? Not I. But now I do and I will look for more after tasting this one from Naumes Family Vineyards. Tempranillo, Spain’s signature variety grown in Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Toro, is an early ripening one that does well in southern Oregon, according to producers there. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – Oregon
Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2017
($65): Nicolas-Jay, a French-American collaboration that started in 2012, is producing superb Pinot Noir in Oregon. On the American side is music entrepreneur, Jay Boberg. Bringing the Burgundian perspective to the venture is super star Jean-Nicolas Méo, who currently heads the famed Méo-Camuzet estate in Vosne Romanée. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2016
($30): The Rogue Valley in southwestern Oregon does not have the cachet — yet — for wine that the Willamette Valley has. Wines from the Naumes family suggests that will change. The Naumes family has been growing fruit trees in Oregon for over a hundred years and added grapes and wine only in 2013, according to their website, making them a somewhat new player in the Oregon wine industry. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2017
($30): Viognier is a tough grape to transform into wine. It needs to ripen adequately to provide its floral dimension, but a little over ripeness brings with it high alcohol and an unbalanced wine. Despite the stated 14.5-percent alcohol, this one still harnesses delicate floral and peach-like notes both on the nose and the palate. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2016
($30): The Rogue Valley in southwestern Oregon does not have the cachet — yet — for wine that the Willamette Valley has. Wines from the Naumes family suggests that will change. The Naumes family has been growing fruit trees in Oregon for over a hundred years and added grapes and wine only in 2013, according to their website, making them a somewhat new player in the Oregon wine industry. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2017
($30): Viognier is a tough grape to transform into wine. It needs to ripen adequately to provide its floral dimension, but a little over ripeness brings with it high alcohol and an unbalanced wine. Despite the stated 14.5-percent alcohol, this one still harnesses delicate floral and peach-like notes both on the nose and the palate. … Read more
Lingua Franca, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Avni” 2016
($39): Lingua Franca is one of ever-increasing numbers of Oregon wineries that have a French connection. In this case, Larry Stone, Master Sommelier and wine consultant, purchased a vineyard in 2012 in the Eola-Amity Hills section of the Willamette Valley, originally planning to sell the grapes. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2015
($45): The Drouhin family, one of Burgundy’s star producers, made history when they bought land in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and started Domaine Drouhin Oregon there in 1987. Over three decades later, they remain one of Oregon’s — and America’s — leading producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. … Read more
Dusky Goose, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($65): John and Linda Carter, both successful in their respective careers — he in business and she in music — had the good sense to hired Lynn Penner-Ash to make their wine. She was the one who put the Rex Hill Vineyards’ Pinot Noir on the map in the late 1980s and 1990s before establishing Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. … Read more
Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Roserock 2016
($31): The Drouhin family, the famed Burgundy producer, is doing what comes naturally to Burgundy producers, focusing on the uniqueness of vineyards. They’ve purchased an additional vineyard in another part of the Willamette Valley and are making distinctive wines there that are different from the ones they produce in the Dundee Hills, showing that terroir is alive and well in Oregon. … Read more
Lingua Franca, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Avni” 2016
($39): Lingua Franca is one of ever-increasing numbers of Oregon wineries that have a French connection. In this case, Larry Stone, Master Sommelier and wine consultant, purchased a vineyard in 2012 in the Eola-Amity Hills section of the Willamette Valley, originally planning to sell the grapes. … Read more
Maysara, McMinnville, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Jamsheed” 2012
($33): The Momtazi family is not in a rush. In 1997, they purchased close to 500 acres — an abandoned wheat farm that had been free from chemical fertilizer since the beginning of that decade — and finally starting planting them in earnest two years later. … Read more
Maysara, McMinnville, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Asha” 2012
($50): Maysara’s Asha Pinot Noir comes from the same vineyard as the Jamsheed, but since the vineyard is large with multiple soils and numerous clones of Pinot Noir, they have the ability to create different blends. As enthralled as I was with the Jamsheed, this one is more spell-binding. … Read more
Brittan Vineyards, McMinnville, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Gestalt Block 2015
($60): Founded barely 15 years ago, in 2004, by Robert and Ellen Brittan, Brittan Vineyards is a name to remember. Robert, who was the winemaker and estate manager at Stags’ Leap Winery for 16 years, must be a fast learner because that winery didn’t make Pinot Noir, or if they did, it was not a focus of their production. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2015
($45): The Drouhin family, one of Burgundy’s star producers, made history when they bought land in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and started Domaine Drouhin Oregon there in 1987. Over three decades later, they remain one of Oregon’s — and America’s — leading producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. … Read more
Dusky Goose, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($65): John and Linda Carter, both successful in their respective careers — he in business and she in music — had the good sense to hired Lynn Penner-Ash to make their wine. She was the one who put the Rex Hill Vineyards’ Pinot Noir on the map in the late 1980s and 1990s before establishing Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. … Read more
Archery Summit, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris “Vireton” 2015
($22): Archery Summit, a top Oregon Pinot Noir producer, also makes distinctive Pinot Gris, judging from this one. It strikes the balance of subtle stone fruit flavors buttressed by vibrant acidity. They have captured the essence of Pinot Gris without falling into the trap of over ripeness. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Roserock Vineyard “Zéphirine” 2014
($60): Not surprisingly, Domaine Drouhin Oregon is following the Burgundy tradition of terroir: simply put, where the grapes grow influences the taste and character of the wine. In addition to their “home” vineyard in the Dundee Hills of the Willamette Valley, DDO has acquired an additional vineyard, Roserock, in the Eola-Amity Hills subzone of the Willamette. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir 2014
($42): The Drouhin family, with their rich traditions and deep roots in Burgundy, made history in Oregon — and quite a stir back in Beaune — by creating Domaine Drouhin Oregon thirty years ago. Since then, other Burgundy producers have followed, but Drouhin was the first of the French to recognize the extraordinary potential in Oregon for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Laurène” 2013
($70): The Laurène bottling is Domaine Drouhin Oregon’s (a.k.a. DDO) reserve wine. As such, it is deeper and more concentrated, but without sacrificing refinement and elegance. While their “regular” bottling highlights the fruitiness found in Oregon, the Laurène emphasizes the gorgeous earthy leafy aspect of Oregon Pinot Noir. … Read more
Patton Valley Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate 2013
($34): At a trade tasting, I was impressed by the dramatic differences in Patton Valley Vineyard’s Pinot Noirs expressed depending on the location of the vineyard. Equally impressive is this one, blended from a variety of vineyard sites. Restrained, with more of a fruit than herbal focus, it is nicely balanced. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay Roserock Vineyard 2014
($35): Though Drouhin’s Roserock vineyard, their new one in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, is focused on Pinot Noir, eleven of the 111 planted acres are devoted to Chardonnay. Laurent Drouhin notes the vineyard is at a higher elevation compared to theirs in the Dundee Hills and describes the soil as pebbly. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Roserock Vineyard 2014
($35): Maison Drouhin, the superb Burgundy-based négociant, was the first French firm to invest in Oregon when they purchased vineyards in the Dundee AVA of the Willamette Valley 20+ years ago. Over the subsequent two decades, they’ve produced a very impressive array of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from their Dundee vineyards. … Read more
Nicolas Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2014
($65): Full disclosure: I love the wines from Burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, so I could be prejudiced towards any project involving Jean-Nicolas Méo. That said, it’s hard to imagine not raving about this wine. Music mogul Jay Boberg and Jean-Nicolas have teamed up to make Pinot Noir in Oregon. … Read more
Maison L’Envoye, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Two Messengers” 2013
($30): Perhaps the “Two Messengers” tag reflects the collaboration between Burgundy’s Louis-Michael Liger-Belair and the Willamette Valley. Or perhaps it’s the combination of two complementary flavors — ripe fruit and savory nuances. Whatever the origin of the name, the wine is easy to recommend because it does bring together the Janus-like essence of Pinot Noir, with bright red fruit notes harmonized with earthy complexity. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2013
($40): Ponzi, one of the pioneers in the Oregon wine industry, continues to show that Pinot Noir is well-suited to Willamette’s climate and soil. Whereas their Tavola bottling focuses more on bright fruit, the Willamette Valley label has the near magical combination of smoky savory nuances to complement the dark fruit notes. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2011
($60): Dick Ponzi was one of the Oregon wine pioneers when he and his wife established their winery and vineyard in 1970. At the time, scarcely anyone thought Oregon was a place to grow Pinot Noir. Well, he was correct, as Ponzi’s Pinot Noirs have shown over the years. … Read more
Jadot in Oregon: Another French Invasion?
Jadot’s seemingly sudden expansion into Oregon was, as Pierre Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, describes it, “a perfect storm,” though a good one in this instance.… Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Arthur” 2012
($32): The Chardonnay — and the Pinot Noir for that matter — from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, the outpost of one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, both have the elegance and finesse of the mother ship. The 2012 Arthur, named after winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s son, is paradoxically lush and restrained. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Estate Reserve 2009
($0): Given the limited production of this single vineyard wine, it will be hard to find. But it’s surely worth the search. Lange Estate makes impressive wines from purchased fruit, but this one shows the great heights they achieve when they use their own. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Reserve 2011
($35): Judging by their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, Lange Estate is a name to remember. This one shows the paradox of Pinot Noir — powerful yet delicate. Its power is in its persistence and layered flavors of fruit and earthiness. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2011
($20): I was not familiar with the wines from Lange Estate Winery until a recent tasting in Boston. That was a mistake I’m glad I’ve now corrected. This perky Pinot Gris has vivacity that harmonizes perfectly with its subtly spiced pear-like flavors.… Read more
Erath, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir 2011
($19): It’s hard to find drinkable Pinot Noir under $20 a bottle, which is why it was such a pleasant surprise to run across Erath’s. Drawn from grapes grown all over Oregon, this mid-weight wine emphasizes delicate red fruit nuances. Hints of spice add complexity and prevent it from seeming like a boring, one-trick-pony of a wine. … Read more
The Four Graces, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2012
($20): The Black family purchased an existing vineyard in the Dundee Hills in 2003, immediately started to transform it and named the winery after their four daughters. This graceful (no pun intended) Pinot Gris shows the beauty of that varietal and is a classic example of it. … Read more
Abacela, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Tempranillo 2009
($21): Tempranillo, Spain’s leading premium red grape, is a recent addition to Oregon vineyards. Judging from this example, growers will be planting more. Juicy and fruity, Abacela’s has a pleasant tang that gives it structure and prevents it from coming across as jammy. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Emery” 2008
($45): WillaKenzie bottles several vineyard designated Pinot Noir each year. For some wineries, vineyard designation is simply a marketing tool. Not for WillaKenzie. Their single vineyard wines are distinctive and unique. Slightly more power and concentration sets WillaKenzie’s Emery Vineyard bottling apart from their Aliette bottling (previously reviewed). … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Aliette” 2008
($48): WillaKenzie Estate, one of Oregon’s leading Pinot Noir producers, has several single vineyard bottlings, all of which are distinct in character. The Aliette delivers far more complexity without additional weight compared to their very good multi-vineyard blend, labeled Pierre Léon. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Pierre Léon” 2008
($35): WillaKenzie is one of Oregon’s great Pinot Noir producers. This one, Pierre Léon, is blended from grapes from all of their vineyards and gives an insight to their finesse-filled style. Delicate more than overpowering, this mid-weight, elegant Pinot Noir delivers fresh red fruit–raspberry-like flavors mixed with leafy nuances.… Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2008
($34): Ponzi is one the leaders in Oregon Pinot Noir. Their Reserve bottling is consistently top-notch because they make only about 1,500 12-bottle cases of it. The lesser quality fruit goes into their two lower tiers of Pinot Noir. This Reserve has an exciting combination delicate fresh red fruits and leafy savory notes. … Read more
Abacela, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Albariño 2011
($18): Abacela has focused on Spanish varietals, starting with Tempranillo, since their founding. They first made Albariño about a decade ago, when hardly anyone was familiar with this variety from Spain’s Rias Baixas region. There’s still little Albariño planted in the US and what is planted is rarely turned into wine of this caliber.… Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2008
($48): Under the masterful leadership of Véronique Drouhin, the wines from the Domaine Drouhin Oregon (a.k.a. DDO) has gotten better and better since their first vintage, 1988. Part of the credit goes to time. The vines are older and now over 90% of the grapes for the Pinot Noir come from their vineyards. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2009
($20): Similarly stylish to their Pinot Blanc, WillaKenzie’s Pinot Gris is more in the full-bodied Alsace style rather than the lighter Italian Pinot Grigio rendition. Those who prefer absolutely dry wines will be disappointed because of the ever so slight hint of sweetness. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2009
($21): WillaKenzie makes lovely wines exclusively from their estate-grown grapes. They are best known for their stylish Pinot Noir–approximately 70% of their vineyards are devoted to that varietal–but they also make excellent examples of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. They planted Pinot Blanc in the early and mid-1990s, which means the vines are starting to enter a mature stage and are capable of making more complex wines. … Read more
Cloudline, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2007
($14): The delicate and able hand of Veronique Drouhin, who is in charge of Domaine Drouhin Oregon and whose family owns Maison Joseph Drouhin in Burgundy, is evident in this charming Pinot Gris. Not as ripe as many–which is a good thing–it has an alluring combination of pear notes and Granny Smith apple-like liveliness.… Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Laurène” 2005
($75): This is one of America’s best bottlings of Pinot Noir. Thankfully, it’s not an overdone powerhouse even thought the Laurène bottling is a selection of their best barrels. (Laurène is the name of the eldest daughter of Veronique Drouhin, who is in charge of the Oregon property). … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2008
($18): Consumers often forget that Oregon producers exceptional Pinot Gris. This wine should remind them. Full and rich, it has hints of melons and nuances of apricots and other stone fruits. Enlivening acidity refreshes the palate and keeps you coming back for more. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2008
($18): Pinot Blanc can be vapid and boring. Not this one. Fuller than most, this lovely example has a stone fruit kind of richness balanced and invigorated by lively acidity in the finish. It’s an excellent choice as an aperitif that could easily be carried to the table to match with grilled fish, a seafood stew or even roast chicken.… Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) “Tavola” 2007
($25): Ponzi has a well-deserved reputation for making excellent wines. This is what producers call an ‘entry level’ wine. Similar to a second label, it is made from younger vines and a selection of wines that are lighter and more forward or ready to drink. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Reserve 2006
($30): It’s hard to imagine finding a more satisfying $30 Chardonnay. With this classy wine, you feel the effect of oak instead of being bombarded with it. There’s a subtle elegance lurking here, as opposed to a hit-you-over- the-head overtness. Ponzi has captured a minerality complemented–but not smothered–by a subtle creaminess. … Read more
Erath, Dundee Hills (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Estate Selection” 2006
($36): A giant step up from Erath’s ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week), this Estate Selection is serious stuff, a blend of the best wines from six of the estate’s vineyards in the Dundee Hills. This house has a deft hand with oak because it gives this wine a rich texture and added spice without intruding or detracting from the panoply of fruit flavors. … Read more