Tasca d’Almerita, one of Sicily’s top producers, oversees Tenuta Sallier de la Tour for a cousin, which helps explain this bold wine’s stature. Although plummy and ripe, it is not heavy. Savory elements sneak in, adding complexity. Supple tannins impart a suave texture.… Read more
I suspect the source of the grapes—their own—explains a good part of this wine’s stature. Bichot, a respected Beaune-based négociant, like many négociants, owns the vineyards from which they make some of their wines, which has important advantages. It allows the winemaker to determine how to farm the land.… Read more
Chianti Classico is the heart of the broader Chianti area as well as its most famous appellation, extending from the outskirts of Florence to the outskirts of Siena. Although the subregion of Classico and Rufina rightly garner lots of acclaim, this wine shows that good value can be found in the broader Chianti region.… Read more
Thankfully, not all bubbly wine from Italy is Prosecco. The country can make outstanding sparkling wine using the “Metodo Classico.” (EU regulations prohibit the use of the term “Champagne Method” because it references a protected regional name, but that’s what it means).… Read more
Who would have imagined that one of this country’s finest sparkling wines is made in New Mexico! The back story: Gilbert Gruet grew up in Bethon in France’s Champagne region, where, in 1967, he was instrumental in creating a Champagne co-operative.… Read more
Unbeknownst to me, Inama, a consistently superb Soave producer and one of my favorites from that DOC, makes a noteworthy red wine from a neighboring DOC, Colli Berici, also unknown to me. (One of the things I love about Italian wines is the potential for discovery.)… Read more
Let’s unravel the words in the DOC. Ripasso means that the producer has beefed-up the classic light-bodied Valpolicella by re-fermenting the wine on discarded skins of the dried grapes that had been used to make Amarone. Think of it as a Valpolicella on steroids.… Read more
Ilaria Felluga, following in footsteps of father Roberto and grandfather Marco, represents the 6th generation in charge of Russiz Superiore. I know Russiz Superiore sounds like it should be a DOC, but it’s really the name of one of their two estates.… Read more
Wines from the subregions of Chianti, like Chianti Classico or Chianti Rufina, often overshadow the wines from Chianti. Well, it’s a mistake for consumers to ignore wines labeled Chianti, a broad region with its own DOCG that can be home to excellent wines.… Read more
Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva. The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively. Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften.… Read more
Badia di Morrona packs unusually good depth into their Vermentino. Saline-tinged acidity keeps it fresh and balances its weight. This Vermentino has real substance so uncork it with creatures from the sea that are swimming in a hearty sauce.
92 Michael Apstein – Dec 25, 2024… Read more
I know Dog Point for their fabulous array of Sauvignon Blancs, but was unfamiliar with their Pinot Noir, so jumped at the chance to try it at a local restaurant. A style that is fruit focused and clean with a fine texture make it a perfect choice for current consumption.… Read more
Delille has created a masterful blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon that highlights the best of both of those varieties. The pleasantly piercing bite of Sauvignon nicely complements the lanolin-like texture and creaminess of Semillon. Racy acidity in the finish keeps it fresh.… Read more
San Leonardo, an outstanding producer in Trentino, makes a stunning Super-Trentino bottling of the same name from the Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenère. In the late 90s and early 2000s, about the same time that they realized what they always thought was Cabernet Franc was really Carmenère, they were replanting Cabernet Sauvignon.… Read more
Starting with the 2000 vintage, San Leonardo began another wine called Villa Gresti, a blend of Merlot (90%) and Carmenère. While the 2019 is still Merlot-dominant (60%), the blend has changed, incorporating Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Carmenère. The bolder and riper Villa Gresti is a dramatic counterpoint to the more refined and elegant Terre di San Leonardo, displaying rich mineral-y nuances atop a suave base.… Read more
Carmignano, a small DOCG, just northwest of Florence, requires the blending of Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese. Regulations require Barco Reale to be made from the same grapes as Carmignano grown basically in the area. Think of Barco Reale di Carmignano as a Rosso.… Read more
Malbec, originally found in Cahors in southwestern France or in Bordeaux where it was a prominent part of the blend until the mid-1950s (when a devastating frost decimated the vines) has made a name for itself as Argentina’s signature red grape.… Read more
Grüner Veltliner, often referred to as Gru-Vee in marketing jargon, is Austria’s most well-known and signature grape, comprising a whopping one-third of all plantings, red and white, in that country. This crisp and well-priced one, made from organically grown grapes, delivers this lively green apple-like nuances, which make it a perfect accompaniment to spicey fare.… Read more
Unsurprisingly, all Merlot is not the same. Brandolini’s mid-weight Merlot, for example, bears no resemblance to the opulent and fruity ones often coming out of California. Rather, it’s dark fruitiness is more restrained and accented with savory, earthy notes. Fine tannins impart a suave texture that makes it a delight to drink now with hearty fare.… Read more
Bolgheri is not the only locale in Italy for superb wine made from Bordeaux varieties. In the early 1980s, Marquis Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga experimented at his estate in Trentino with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and what he thought was Cabernet Franc, varieties that had been planted in the area since the 19th century.… Read more
The venerable Beaune-based producer, Maison Louis Jadot, was ahead of its time when it purchased the famed Château des Jacques property in Moulin-à-Vent and set about defining the different terroirs—vineyard sites—in that appellation. Almost 30 years later, a bevy of Burgundy producers are doing the same thing.… Read more
I know, 95 points for a Beaujolais? Yes, this is one of, if not the best, Brouilly I have ever tasted. So, yes 95 points to get your attention. The La Chaize vineyard, a monopole, lies just behind the château on a very steep southeast facing slope.… Read more
With this Fleurie, Château La Chaize shows that terroir is alive and well in Beuajolais. Their La Chapelle des Bois, a historically important lieu-dit in Fleurie, is wonderfully different from their Brouilly. It’s far more floral, firm, and minerally without the peppery accent that identifies their La Chaize vineyard in Brouilly.… Read more
Boris Champy has been, as they say, around the block. A native of the Champagne region, he worked at Napa Valley’s Dominus Estate for a decade and then was technical director at Maison Louis Latour, the venerable Beaune-based negociant, for another decade.… Read more
Meursault-Blagny sits high on the slope, just under the tree line, on the border with Puligny-Montrachet. The cooler locale explains why the white wines from this appellation are always racier and more delicate than other Meursault Premier Crus. Latour’s 2022 supplements that profile with refined power and an engaging floral component.… Read more
Latour, the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, consistently makes stellar wine from that Grand Cru site. Their 2022 is no exception. A thrilling wine that makes you gasp, it has a bit of everything—minerals, creaminess, depth, and verve—but not too much of anything.… Read more
Wow, what a wine! Domaine Louis Latour, with its almost 8-acres, owns two-thirds of the Premier Cru portion of Les Chaillots, a 11.7-acre plot bordering the Grand Cru Corton-Grèves. Like many Burgundy vineyards, another 4.8-acre chunk of the vineyard is classified solely as village Aloxe-Corton because it lies further down the slope on heavier soil.… Read more
The term Château is used far less commonly in Bourgogne compared to Bordeaux. French authorities allowed Latour to use Château Corton Grancey because of its historical significance. The wine, frequently just referred to as Grancey, is a blend of five of the Grand Cru lieux-dits on the hill of Corton: Perrières, Grèves, Bressandes, Clos du Rois, and Chaumes.… Read more
A blend of roughly two-thirds Chardonnay and one-third Pinot Noir, all from Premier Cru villages, De Saint-Gall’s Le Tradition delivers a rounder style of Champagne while still maintaining a balancing edge of acidity. It is a fine choice as a celebratory aperitif but also holds up nicely to fish or chicken filets in a cream sauce.… Read more
Although Aligoté, the second white grape of Bourgogne, comprises only about 10 percent of the white plantings there, climate change and increased interest in the grape by growers makes Bourgogne Aligoté worth exploring. In the past, Aligoté, a lean and acidic wine, was used primarily to offset the sweetness of crème de cassis in an aperitif, Kir.… Read more
Alexandre Burgaud represents the 4th generation of the family producing wine in Beaujolais. Although not a cru like Moulin-à-Vent or Fleurie, Lantignié, a village in the Beaujolais-Villages appellation that lies just outside of the designated cru appellations, can make distinctive Beaujolais (and deserves to be granted cru status).… Read more
A red grape-heavy blend (60 percent Pinot Meunier and 10 percent Pinot Noir) imparts power to this while the Chardonnay provides a strong and balancing backbone. It is a powerful argument against those who say Pinot Meunier is the lesser of the trio of Champagne grapes.… Read more
Goisot, one of the top producers in the Côtes d’Auxerre, an up-and-coming appellation just west of Chablis, makes an extraordinarily consistent range of wines from that appellation. Their name on the label is a guarantee of quality. And because the appellations of Côtes d’Auxerre and Bourgogne Aligoté are less well known, the wines provide superb value.… Read more
The major Beaune-based négociants either make wines from their own vineyards or from grapes or newly pressed juice (must) they purchase from others. Sometimes they even buy wine made by others and finish the aging process themselves. They prefer to make wine from either their own grapes or purchased grapes because they control the pressing of the grapes, and the resulting wine is usually better.… Read more
This stellar Brunello comes from a single vineyard in the northwest section of the DOCG, near their estate. In a word, it is fabulous. It has everything you’d expect from great young Brunello—minerals and dark savory fruitiness packaged in a firm, yet not hard, frame.… Read more
Rosso di Montalcino, sometimes called “Baby Brunello,” can come from vineyards designated for Brunello—usually declassified Sangiovese that didn’t make the cut—or vineyards that are presumably less well situated and reserved strictly for Rosso. Nardi, a top Brunello producer, uses Sangiovese from young vines in Brunello-designated vineyards as well as Sangiovese from Rosso vineyards to produce this charming and fresh wine.… Read more
Combine a top Brunello producer, Tenute Silvio Nardi, with a top Brunello vintage, 2019, and the result is unsurprisingly sensational. Captivating floral aromas pull you in and then, wham, a balance of firm, dark, cherry-like flavors and a marvelous minerality holds your attention.… Read more
Established in 1890, Bodegas Riojanas is one of the traditional producers of Rioja, so it’s not surprising that they label their Riojas in the traditional way, by how long the wine has aged, as opposed what is becoming very popular in Rioja now, by geography.… Read more
Although Rioja Reserva wines spend only a year in barrel, like Crianza bottlings, the source of the grapes is typically better and the required two years of bottle aging before release smooths out the rough edges. The mid-weight Monte Real de Familia Reserva delivers less fruitiness, and more complexity, with a distinct savory component.… Read more
Gran Reserva wines from Rioja require a minimum of five years before release, with at least two years in barrel. The grapes for Gran Reserva are always the highest quality, in this case Tempranillo from Bodegas Riojanas’ best vineyard. Fitting the expected profile, the mid-weight but not ponderous Gran Reserva from Monte Real conveys an impeccable balance of darker fruit and an appealing savory, almost leathery, kick.… Read more
Prosecco Superiore, as my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, is a category of Prosecco that is a step above those labeled simply Prosecco because the land from which the grapes come is, well, just better. Bortolomiol, certainly one of the names to remember, makes a range of fine Prosecco sparklers.… Read more
The inclusion of Chardonnay (20%) into this Vermentino-heavy blend adds richness without destroying the saline minerality of the Vermentino. Rounder than most Vermentinos, it’s a fine choice for those who look for more umph in that variety. It is a good choice for grilled swordfish.… Read more
As my colleague here at Wine Review Online recently pointed out, “it’s the time to taste the ‘Good Stuff’” in reference to Prosecco. Well, this Cartizze from Sandi is really the “Good Stuff.” Cartizze, with its area of only about 250 acres of vines and accounting for about 0.1 percent of Prosecco’s output, is considered the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid.… Read more
A small amount, less than five percent, of Beaujolais is white and made from Chardonnay. Maison Louis Jadot, the venerable Beaune-based Burgundy négociant, saw the potential of the Beaujolais region when they purchased the famed Château des Jacques in Moulin-à-Vent, among Beaujolais’ most famous Crus, in 1996.… Read more
Gavi, the DOCG, takes its name from Gavi, the principal commune of the region. Wines from the DOCG remain underappreciated, perhaps because they are typically racy and sleek but not opulent, or perhaps the grape from which the wines must be made, Cortese, has little recognition.… Read more
Kumeu River, owned by the charming and humble Brajkovich family, is arguably New Zealand’s top Chardonnay producer. Founded in 1944, they started making fortified wines and gradually transitioned to high quality still wine with, of all things, Müller-Thurgau, and eventually landed on Chardonnay.… Read more
Pinot Grigio grapes actually have a pinkish hue to them. When crushed gently, they make the usual white Pinot Grigio wine. When crushed with a touch more force or when the skins and juice are kept in contact for a little time during fermentation, the wine has a copper (ramato in Italian) tint.… Read more
If someone can find a better $25 Pinot Noir, please tell me. Until then, just buy this stunning one by the case. Although the wine is labeled Kumeu Village, the grapes come from Hawke’s Bay where they purchased vineyards in 2017, not being able to expand around Kumeu because of its proximity to Auckland.… Read more
The Tremblay family has always been a leader in Chablis. They were among the first to build a gravity-flow winery, which eliminates the need for pumps in Chablis shortly after WWII. (Pumping can harm the grapes and juice intended for more delicate wines such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.)… Read more
Labeling aside, do not miss this wine. The Domaine de Saint Cosme is a top producer of red wine, especially their extraordinary Gigondas releases from the village where they are based. They are less well-known for white wines, though Les Deux Albion, may change that.… Read more