Bonny Doon Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Picpoul 2021

($16):  Picpoul, literally translated as “lip stinger,” is widely planted in southern France where it’s prized for its impressive acidity.  Growers also love it for its propensity towards high yields.  Though I’ve had plenty of experience with Picpoul de Pinet, a southern French wine made from the same grape, this is the first one I’ve tasted from California, even though Randall Grahm tells me he’s been making this wine for six or seven years.  He and his team at Bonny Doon have likely reigned in its yield, which might explain why their 2021 Picpoul has such good depth despite a meager 11.9 percent stated alcohol.  It’s bracing acidity is front and center, but not aggressive.  There’s an intriguing saline-like component that makes it perfect for anything that lives in the sea.  Stock up on this edgy and well-priced wine for summer.
92 Michael Apstein May 3, 2022