La Casaccia, Barbera del Monferrato DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Giuanin” 2019

($25):  La Casaccia, a family-run winery with 20 acres of vines, has always been ahead of the curve.  They started farming organically two decades ago, well before it became popular.  For those unfamiliar with Barbera, and even for those who know that grape well, this is a beautiful example.  It delivers a balance package of spice, little red fruits, enlivening acidity and mild tannins.  Daniele Cernilli, a world’s authority on Italian wines, points out that the hallmark of Barbera is that acidity is more important and takes precedence over tannins.  Indeed, the acidity is mouth-watering and a perfect foil for current drinking with a hearty pasta dish.  The name of the wine, by the wine, means “little Giovanni” in Piedmontese dialect.  But this is no little wine.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2022