Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Barolo del Comune di Barolo” 2016

($63, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):  The combination of an outstanding vintage (2016) and an outstanding producer (Marchesi di Barolo) equals an outstanding wine.  The wine is a blend from their vineyards within in the municipality of Barolo, one of the 11 villages that comprise the DOCG and the one from which the DOCG takes its name.  The first whiff — floral and minerally — tells you it’s a grand wine.  The palate confirms it.  Dark fruit is apparent and then lovely firm tarriness appears.  There are the famous Nebbiolo tannins, but they are finely polished and not aggressive.  Plus, there is plenty of stuffing in this balanced wine.  A long finish with hints of bitterness just adds to its appeal.  Overall, however, its poise and finesse are what makes this Barolo shine.  Rather than displaying a blockbuster impenetrable style, it wows you with elegance and gracefulness that is a fitting complement to its power.  This Barolo is the quintessential iron fist in a velvet glove.  I suggest finding a place in your cellar so you can appreciate additional complexity in five or 10 years when you pull the cork.  Although I hesitate to call a $63 wine a bargain, it is for what it delivers.
95 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2022