Mauro Veglio, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2018

($45):  This family-owned firm makes a range of Barolo from four of the important vineyards or cru in the DOCG and this one, made from grapes grown in La Morra and Monforte d’Alba where they also have vineyards.  It’s a masterful blend that shows the value of the tradition of blending from throughout the Barolo DOCG versus the more recent trend towards single vineyard bottling.  The wine combines the elegance expected from wines from La Morra with the power and sturdier structure characteristic of those from Monforte d’Alba.  Displaying a beguiling combination of floral and mineral, almost tarry, notes, this Barolo is surprisingly approachable because of the finely honed tannins.  Its stature becomes even more apparent with its long and graceful finish.  Sure, it needs more time — it is Barolo, after all — but it will give great pleasure with a few more years of bottle age, rather than the usual decade.  It’s an excellent choice to drink while waiting for the 2016s to come around.  And it’s well-priced for what it delivers.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2022