Bertinga, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) 2016

($75, Massanois):  Located in Gaiole in Chianti in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, Bertinga is a new venture.  The 2016s are their first release.  After tasting their wines, I have a feeling their success is not beginner’s luck.  Their 50 or so acres of vineyards are planted exclusively with Sangiovese and Merlot.  All their wines carry the IGT Toscana designation.  This one, a roughly 50/50 blend of Merlot and Sangiovese, is their standard bearer and carries the name of the estate.  It’s a broad-shouldered, muscular wine.  Yet for all its size, it is by no means overdone nor heavy.  It’s just youthful and dense.  An attractive subtle bitterness in the finish reinforces the mineral, rather than fruity, aspect of the wine.  The tannins are fine and well-polished.  Plenty of acidity keeps it lively.  At this stage it’s rather unyielding in contrast to Bertinga’s Punta di Adine and Volta di Bertinga.  The expressiveness of the other two coupled with the balance of this one indicates to me that the Bertinga just needs time in the cellar.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 24, 2021