Malgrà, Nizza Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Mora di Sassi 2017

($37, Erie Beverage Solutions):  This is the big brother to Malgrà’s Giaina.  Far weightier, with more apparent tannins at this stage, it weighs in at 15 percent stated alcohol.  It still conveys an attractive dark mineral component and has an alluring hint of bitterness in the finish.  Still balanced, at this stage it’s more about power than elegance, though I’m sure it will come together with a few years of bottle age.  This is a wine for cellar while you drink Malgrà’s Giaina.  Malgrà uses a heavy bottle, presumably to emphasize the wine’s stature.  They need not.  The wine can speak for itself.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2021