Malgrà, Nizza DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Gaiana 2017

($19, Erie Beverage Solutions):   Italian wine authorities promoted Nizza, formerly a part of Barbera d’Asti DOC, to DOCG status in 2014 because it was clear the wines had the capability of being unique.  Malgrà’s Gaiana shows the wisdom of that decision.  In a word, it’s delicious, displaying both power and elegance without a trace of being overdone.  The acidity and freshness imparted by Barbera — regulations require exclusive use of that grape — keep the wine lively and balance its intensity.  Long and succulent, this black-fruited, mineraly wine is a delight to drink now.  Its balance suggests it will evolve nicely.  Its price means you should stock-up.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2021