Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV

($30, Quintessential Wines):  Founded in 1836, Gustave Lorentz’s roots go back to the mid 17th century when the family was involved in barrel making and brokering wine.  Today, they are recognized as one of Alsace’s top producers.  Their Riesling from the Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard — they own a third of the vineyard — is always a sensational wine.  They are also justifiably well-known for their late-harvest wines, which are always worth buying.  Well, it turns out that Lorentz makes fine Crémant, as evidenced by this one and their Rosé.  This one is a blend of about three-quarters Pinot Blanc, some Chardonnay and just a touch, 5 percent, of Riesling.  It’s a blend that works, balancing good body and depth with a spice of acidity that keeps it fresh and lively.  It has remarkable concentration in contrast to many Crémant that can come across and thin and acidic.  It works well as a stand-alone aperitif, but has enough oomph to make it a fine choice with a meal, even spiced Asian fare.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 1, 2021