Donnafugata, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Fragore” 2017

($85, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  The grapes for Donnafugata’s Fragore hail from the Contrada Montelaguardia.  Made entirely from Nerello Mascalese, it is denser than Sul Vulcano Rosso, but paradoxically, still displays a wonderful austerity.  This is no fruit bomb.  Indeed, the power and concentration have a lava-tinged savory character.  As expected from a monovarietal Nerello Mascalese, the tannins are more apparent, but are finely honed, not astringent or green.  Good acidity keeps this muscular wine fresh and invigorating.  The name fragore, which means the sound or the roar of the eruption, is appropriate because of the wine’s energy.  This Fragore just needs time, maybe five years, to blow off steam and settle down.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 1, 2021