Celli, Bertinaro Romagna DOC (Emilia Romagna) Sangiovese Riserva, “Bron & Rusèval” 2017

($28):  Since Sangiovese, a grape associated with Tuscany, is the most widely planted grape in Italy, it is not surprising to find excellent wines made from it outside of that region.  Here’s one such example from nearby Romagna, which Mauro Sirri, the owner of Celli, is quick to identify as distinct from Emilia: “They’re known for Lambrusco; we’re known for dry wines.”  Bertinoro is one of top sub-regions of Romagna.  This graceful mid-weight red combines savory and dark cherry-like notes.  Wonderful acidity, for which Italian wines are known, imparts energy.  Long and refined, it has a real presence. It’s a hearty food type of red ideally suited for current consumption.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 30, 2021