Donnafugata, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2018

($24, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  The primary grape for Etna Bianco is Carricante, one that is unique to Sicily.  Though people, rightly, associate red wine with Sicily, Carricante produces impressive and distinctive whites, especially when grown on the slopes of Mount Etna.  Indeed, Etna Bianco is one of those great white wines that few people know about.  Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, is largely responsible for showing the world that Sicily can produce great wines.  So, their Etna Bianco is a great introduction to the category.  A full-bodied white, despite its meager (by today’s standards) 12.5 percent stated alcohol, you can almost taste the lava.  More savory than fleshy, it has a distinct and invigorating saline-like mineral component amplified by riveting acidity.  A hint of creaminess peeks through in this long and refined wine.  Unsurprisingly, this would be a terrific choice for hearty seafood, even a tomato-based fish stew.
95 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2021