Angelini, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2020

($12):  Starting with the 2019 vintage, Prosecco Rosé is an official DOC.  Initially, I suspected this category was a brilliant marketing maneuver combining two of the hottest wine categories today.  However, producers have told me that Prosecco Rosé should be a premium product that will likely cost more.  It must include 15 percent of Pinot Noir, which must be grown in the DOC, an area where it is not plentiful.  The demand for local Pinot Noir will inevitably drive up the price for that grape.  Additionally, Prosecco Rosé must be vintage-dated, so blending over multiple years, as is allowed with regular Prosecco, is forbidden.  Thirdly, the secondary fermentation must be twice as long as for regular Prosecco, 60 days versus 30 days, which will increase production costs.  Despite these potential reasons for a higher price, Angelini has managed to fashion a delightful one at a very delightful price.  Dry, clean and fresh with a subtle hint of wild strawberries, it’s a perfect springtime — or summer — aperitif.  With only 11 percent stated-alcohol, it is light, yet not vapid.  It could easily be carried to the table to accompany lighter fare, that is, if the bottle isn’t empty.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2021