Hillick & Hobbs, Seneca Lake (Finger Lakes, New York) Dry Riesling Estate Vineyard 2019

($35):  Paul Hobbs, who has made wines around the world, has chosen the Finger Lakes for his Riesling.  He and his younger brother, David, purchased a 78-acre piece of land on Lake Seneca in 2013.  Developed from scratch, they have now planted 21 acres of it will Riesling.  The 2019 was their first commercial vintage.  It is slightly less explosively delightful than the glorious 2020, which may be a result of an extra year in the bottle, vintage variation, or just a learning curve.  Nonetheless, it is a fabulous bone-dry Riesling that excites the palate.  A delicate hint of white flowers belies its edgy minerality that appears on the palate.  Like the 2020, it is long and refined.  Riesling fans will love this duo of 2019 and 2020.  Non-Riesling fans will be converted by them.
94 Michael Apstein Sep 6, 2022