Cantine Garrone, Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Prünent” 2019

($41):  One advantage of a co-operative, like Cantine Garrone, is that they have access to old vines.  Many of the members of the co-op have small plots that have been in their families for generations.  These old-vine plots are too small to commercialize individually, so the farmers send their grapes to the co-op.  The average age of Cantine Garrone’s vines is 60 years, with some more than 100 years old, according to their spokesperson.  This wine is made entirely from Nebbiolo (or Prünent as the locals call it because they believe it is a unique “clone” — really a biotype — of Nebbiolo).  In any case, the wine is delish.  Hints of black tea emanate from the glass.  Typical for Nebbiolo, it is deceptively light in weight, but packs enormous intensity and presence.  Suave tannins allow you to appreciate the leather-like nuances that buttress its red fruit character.  It is a Nebbiolo that you can enjoy now, this fall, with robust fare.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2022