Cantina di Tortona, Colli Tortonesi Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Timorasso “Piccolo Derthona” 2020

($24, Matchvino):  Though I reviewed this wine in July 2021, I just enjoyed it again with dinner and felt consumers should know about it.  The low-yielding Timorasso grape was popular in the Colli Tortonesi DOC in the pre-phylloxera era but was replaced by the more productive Cortese when growers replanted.  As recently as 2000 there were only 15 acres planted.  By 2012, acreage had doubled and probably has doubled again since then, but still, with less than 100 acres of the grape, it is easy to understand why consumers might not know of it.  That is a shame because it combines vibrancy with a creamy richness and spice.  It has maintained its edgy allure since I had it last July without showing any fatigue.  Indeed, a touch more complexity seems to have appeared. It is a wine worth searching for and a bargain to boot.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2022