Domaine René Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) Clos Prieur 2018

($77, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  The Clos Prieur vineyard, which is just across the road from Mazi-Chambertin, a Grand Cru, covers two appellations.  The upper part is Premier Cru and lower part carries a village appellation.  But once again, producer can trump geography.  René Leclerc’s village Clos Prieur has more style and substance than many producers’ premier crus.  It is classic Gevrey, with a mixture of leather and dark fruit-like flavors.  Succulent, but not just fruity by any means, it offers plenty of intriguing savory flavor in a bright and balanced package.  Excellent acidity in the finish amplifies its appeal.  Open now and capture its charms or cellar for five plus years.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021