Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2018

($58, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  Domaine Bart is an A-list producer.  Of course, their Grand Cru Bonnes Mares and Charmes-Chambertin are stunning.  But, if you are looking for something that does not require taking out a mortgage before purchasing, look to their array of wines from Marsannay, a sleepy village north of Gevrey-Chambertin.  Here, and especially at Domaine Bart, you will find authentic wines filled with the savory Côte de Nuits character.  The growers in Marsannay are applying for premier cru status for some of their vineyards.  Clos du Roy is likely to be on that list.  Bright and lively acidity balance Bart’s ripe and succulent 2018 Clos du Roy, keeping it fresh.  The tannins are supple and mild, though paradoxically, the wine is structured, not soft.  Dark cherry-like nuances marry nicely with earthy ones and finish on an attractive hint of bitterness.  Juicy and long, this Marsannay is hard to resist now.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021