Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Cuvée NV

($45, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Founded in 1785, this venerable Champagne firm passed into the hands of the Descours family about a decade ago.  Its non-vintage Brut has since taken a leap in quality.  I remember Piper-Heidsieck as an ordinary Champagne a decade ago, lean and angular.  Well, that’s changed.  A red-grape-predominant blend (about 50% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier) explains its power.  The Chardonnay, that fills out the blend, and the use of 20% reserve wine, likely accounts for a striking elegance, which is all the more welcome considering the wine’s power.  It’s an excellent buy, considering how Champagne prices have taken off.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021