Buli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “515” 2016

($20, Dark Star Imports):  Robert Buly, an American who owns Buli, was drawn to Italy by heritage: his father married an Italian woman from Tuscany soon after WWII ended.  On their website, he jokes that his father met his mother while on the search for red wine to drink.  Decades later, Buly purchased land in Tuscany and is making red wine, very good red wine, I might add.  The 515 refers to the elevation of the vineyard, 515 m asl, which mitigates the daytime heat during the summer.  Paradoxically, the wine is restrained and austere, in the best way, yet is full of flavor.  The firmness of Sangiovese is a perfect foil for the dark bitter cherry-like flavors.  This sleek and racy wine is perfect with hearty pasta or grilled meats, as opposed to a stand-alone aperitif.  And moreover, it’s a bargain.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021