Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Poggiale 2016

($35, Winebow):  Castellare di Castellina, one of Chianti’s traditional and best producers, hits the bullseye again with this Riserva.  The grapes come from a single vineyard that they think produces superior fruit.  After tasting it, I certainly agree there’s something special going on.  A blend of Sangiovese (90%), and equal parts of Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo, delivers a glorious combination of fruit flavors without being fruity.  Though still youthful and tight, it’s balanced and the not-just-fruit character is center stage.  Not a bombastic wine, this Riserva should turn out beautifully in another five years.  If you’re tempted by it now — and you will be — open it several hours in advance and decant it.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2020