Bodegas Bilbainas, Rioja (Spain) “Viña Zaco” 2006

($12, Aveniu Brands):  The absence of oak aging means the bright and juicy cherry-like flavors of this Tempranillo (100%) are readily apparent.  Lively and clean, spice nuances balance the fruit in this uncomplicated wine.  Tannins are barely noticeable.  If it were Italian, I’d call it a “pizza wine.”  But being Spanish, it’s the kind of wine you’d expect to be poured by the glass in a tapas bar–and you’d be very happy. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 15, 2011