CUNE, Rioja (Spain) “Monopole” Bianco 2008

($13, Pasternak Wine Imports):  The two unusual things about this wine is the color–it’s a white Rioja–and the name.  The official name is C.V.N.E. or Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España (The Northern Spanish Wine Company), but everyone refers to it simply as Cune.  Although the vast majority of wine from Rioja is red, the whites have achieved international recognition over the last two decades, as the Viura grape has replaced Malvasia and wineries have turned from oak to stainless steel fermentation.  This one, made entirely from Viura, is crisp and lively–almost spritzy–with notes of green apple.  Bright and refreshing, it’s a good choice for lighter summer fare. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 15, 2011